FIRST STEP - MAKE SURE THE THICKNESS OF YOUR ROTOR IS WITHIN THE  WEAR-LIMIT. Rotors can also wear over time - make certain the rotor is perfectly flat and true with no uneven wear. Wear gloves and begin the following process:

1. Remove your rotors - spray them clean with an isopropyl alcohol (or, we like to use acetone too). Wipe the rotors dry before the cleaning liquid dries.
2. Grab some 80 or 100 grit sandpaper and sand both sides in fairly straight lines, by hand, aggressively. We want to get the factory crosshatch pattern back into the surface essentially creating a new, rough surface for the brake pad to bed into and bite down on. *Rotors are made from hardened stainless steel - you will-not damage or remove any material of the rotor, what-so-ever when sanding by-hand. You’re literally just scratching the surface to create a new “bite point” for the rotor and pad surface.
3. Spray the rotors with alcohol or acetone again, and wipe them down before it dries.
4. Lightly sand the brake pads (if they are used) - it'll take less than a few seconds to get them to look like new again. This resets the pads (as long as they have not been exposed to any oils or contaminants).

No.

Surprisingly all brake pads are the same thickness, and our brake pads mimic OE dimensions as tightly as possible. 

If you are experiencing rubbing after installing our brake pads, this can be resolved by pushing your caliper pistons flush with the caliper body. Even a hair out will make a difference. 

Either put the old brake pads back in and carefully use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the brake pads apart (which will push the pistons back in). 

Alternatively you can use a plastic tire lever to slowly pry each piston flush.  

Again, our brake pads are the same thickness as OE - the rubbing you may be experiencing is absolutely the protrusion of the caliper pistons. 

If you're unhappy with your product, we accept returns within 30 days. Contact us to start the return process.